The bird’s eye view of the city from Zafferano’’s 43rd-storey perch are especially dizzying on Thursday nights, when a DJ spins dance tracks for an appreciative Ladies Night crowd. Meanwhile, inside —cocooned behind soundproofed floor-to- ceiling glass windows, —a more sedentary, but no less appreciative, crowd tucks into chef Emanuele Faggi’’s modern Italian menu.

The usual suspects are all present and accounted for, but there are enough unexpected twists to the culinary plot to keep the taste buds alert, like a dollop of snowy burratina enlivened by olive soil and an intense tomato compote.