Comfort food with a touch of luxe sums up the cuisineserved here. Think truffled macaroni and cheese studdedwith forkfuls of crayfish, all bubbling beneath a crisp,toothsome crust. Or bone marrow with sourdough toastand a sharp herb salad to cut through the richness. The star dish is the suckling pig, which is so masterfully roasted that it is an artful tableau of crisp skin, rendered fat and juicy meat that almost makes its accompaniments of apple purée and honey redundant.

Another crowd favourite is the spiced lamb short ribsdusted with cumin and laid on a bed of silky pumpkinpurée. At dessert, there is a polarising dark chocolateand cheese magnum which blends the sweet richness ofdark chocolate with the earthy creaminess of blue cheese.

For a more popular option, try Avogato comprising espresso topped with a scoop of smooth avocado ice cream.