From its 62nd storey perch, the view is stunning even if the building seems like its swaying somewhat in the wind. The tasting menus feature fine, seasonal ingredients such as salmon and oysters from Loch Fyne, Tajima wagyu and cheeses from Herve Mon, one of France’s most feted cheese experts. Part-way through the meal, guests are invited to a long counter by the kitchen, introduced to house-grown micro-herbs and fed a playful palate cleanser. Dessert is a show of art-meets-sweets. Pastry chefs decorate a large platter from scratch at the table, piping meringue swirls and dusting chocolate soil with flourish.