Tucked away in a sleepy residential area, Shelter InThe Woods purveys hearty and rustic French fare. Therotisserie items are particularly good, but they require a 30- to 45-minute wait—all the more reason to order a selection of scrumptious appetisers.

Solid options include charcoal-grilled squid, escargot and the pâté board. The highlight of the latter is the Burgundy wine pork pâté, suffused with heady flavour. The suckling pig is also fabulous, with crisp skin, a creamy layer of fat beneath it, and succulent, well-seasoned meat. It is served with pickled onions and grilled pineapple to give the rich meat a nice, bright counterpoint.

If you only have space for one dessert, make it a tart fromthe Chef’s Special board. The chocolate tart is particularlydelicious—rich, with a lovely whisper of bitterness.