The arrival of chef Mok Kit Keung, formerly of Shang Palace’’s two-Michelin-starred sister restaurant in Hong Kong, has brought a welcome breath of fresh air, injecting much creativity to the menu.

Unique options include the roasted “pipa” French pigeon cooked Cantonese-style and the whole crab with silky smooth cheong fun (rice rolls) on steamed roe and homemade beancurd. Traditional staples such as the roasted meats are exceptionally well executed here too. A standout is the char siew, or barbecued pork, that’s generously layered with fat and lightly charred in all the right places.