This is the first Southeast Asian outpost of restaurateur Alan Yau’’s restaurant empire, and what an impression it is making. With its chic plush setting——think velvet-lined banquette seats, chandeliers and a DJ spinning cool beats——Madame Fan resembles a glamorous watering hole more than a Chinese restaurant.

Given the very modern setting, it is only fitting that the traditional shares the spotlight with the contemporary on the menu, resulting in an eclectic yet succinct selection of dishes. Alongside a dim sum menu available for lunch, highlights from the dinner menu include the beautifully scented Four Treasure soup served in a young coconut. Rich with flavour and brimming with fish maw, sea cucumber and dried Hokkaido scallop, this is a fine example of Cantonese double-boiled soup. The drunken mud crab kissed with heady 20-year-old Gu Yue Long Shan rice wine and served on a bed of silky rice noodles is another classic beautifully executed, as is the steamed soon hock lightly seasoned with fragrant Hong Koy soy sauce.

Other lovely dishes round up the menu——such as gambero rosso prawn wok-fried with XO, green chilli and chewy caramelised pineapple; Australian ribeye tossed in a fiery Sarawak black pepper sauce; and pork carbonara with Inaiwa udon, sea urchin and soft-boiled egg. For dessert, the vanilla souffle with homemade soursop ice cream is light as air and certainly well-worth the 20 minute-wait.