Helmed by Hong Kong-born executive chef Fung Chi Keung, Kai Garden is one of those dependably excellent Cantonese restaurants that purveys traditional fare and some modern options with incredible skill and aplomb.

The menu is extensive, which can make ordering a mind-boggling task. But begin the meal with the crispy Peking duck and you are off to a good start. The duck—with delectably crisp skin and succulent flesh—is served with five different wraps (original, pumpkin, spinach, bamboo charcoal and beetroot) and five dipping sauces (traditional, black pepper, sesame, seafood and a special chef sauce). Each brings its own unique flavour to the duck, making this dish a joy to consume. The crunchiest corn crackers are served to add texture, and are so good, you might be tempted to order it just to snack on throughout the meal.

Other winning dishes here include the braised 10-head Australian abalone in supreme oyster sauce, double-boiled Japanese matsutake mushrooms served in hot pot, and garoupa in lobster soup. Another winner is the sweet and sour pork, served on ice in little skewers.

Dim sum lovers must try chef Fung’s sumptuous spread. Top of the list are the pan-fried pork dumpling siew mai, deep-fried yam and pumpkin, and fried carrot cake in XO sauce. The signature steamed custard bun with its molten salted-egg centre is a crowd favourite, and for good reason. With sweet and salty flavours in perfect balance, and a flowing lava centre, this oozes satisfaction in every mouthful.