It’s tucked away in an old school coffeeshop in the heart of Tiong Bahru, with a mee pok stall perched right in front. (And not just any meepok stall; it’s the selfsame one in Singaporean filmmaker Eric Khoo’s Meepok Man). Newcomers may take a while to find the entrance, but regulars—Japanese expats, local foodies and hipsters—love its speakeasy vibes, hip cool soundtrack of Japanese pop and acid jazz, and above all the casual delicious menu by Japanese chef Asai Masashi.

Yakitori reigns supreme at Bincho. The yakitori platter featuring gizzards, soft bone, heart, tail et al of the tori (i.e. chicken) offers a good range of textures and flavours, making it a good place to start. Another must-try: smoky chicken wings stuffed with salty mentai (pollock roe).