Dark, industrial, with hard lines and lots of wood, Bar-A-Thym is a cosy setup headed by chef François Mermilliod, a familiar name in the local F&B scene. Contemporary French food is on the menu, with the omakase its main draw, and at good value too.

At lunch, $85 gets you a five-course feast that may include three Irish Majestic oysters served with lemonmirin dressing; delicate tuna tataki nicely lifted with peppery microgreens and bacalao accras; or salt cod croquettes with nahm jhim dressing.

For mains, an impressive whole pigeon stuffed with foie gras is served on a board with root vegetables on the side. This is sliced into half at the table which gives a lovely sense of occasion. What a treat.