Behind its traditional shoji screen doors, Ashino is anchored by a sushi counter carved from a block of 180-year-old hinoki wood. This intimate 10-seater counter offers a front-row view of chef Tako Ashino at work. There are several options for dinner, ranging from $220 for a set menu to $400 for omakase. Ashino specialises in ageing sushi, and some highlights include botan ebi, cured for three days; flounder cured over two weeks; and the rich, sweet Murusaki uni. For more affordable options, come for lunch, when sets start at $120.