A meal at this kappo restaurant is boisterously fun, especially when the chefs start ladling an unending heap of gleaming ikura or salmon roe atop bowls of rice. With each ladleful, they call out in Japanese, demanding the attention of the rest of the dining room, who turn to watch just when you’ll tell the chefs to stop, even as your ikura runneth over your rice bowl. Before this bit of dinner theatre, guests who come for the excellent-value omakase menus would have been treated to a procession of beautifully presented dishes. Should you choose the larger of the two omakase menus, you will be rewarded with a heaping serving of Japanese sea urchin on top of your pile of ikura.