Located in the National Gallery, Yan’s gorgeous dining room combines traditional and modern Chinese elements with enviable style. Its name means ‘banquet’ in Mandarin, so expect plenty of delicious treats that draw from the Cantonese canon.

Like any good Cantonese restaurant worth its conpoy, the soups here are ambrosial and lovingly brewed to coax all the precious flavours from their ingredients.

The barbecued meats are also impressive, especially the roasted pork belly with its succulent, tender flesh and crisp, crackling skin. The Peking duck is equally fantastic, with skin separated from flesh and served with supple crepes and classic condiments of cucumber and scallions.

If you are feeling indulgent, splurge on the braised whole abalone with superior oyster sauce. The mollusc is tender and retains its natural flavours independent of its robust braising gravy. Then there is Yan’s claypot rice with preserved meat, sausages and vegetables. Its simplicity belies the rich flavours that saturate each grain of rice.

Yan’s stellar, unpretentious fare is matched by a well-curated wine list and excellent service.